Avatar
robthebrew
Posts: 763
Ebay:
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/121166882972?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2649
that was mine, they should have more.
2021-05-08 03:50
Avatar
Cris Rowlands (CrisRowlands)
Designer
From: Cradley Heath, United Kingdom
Posts: 121
25MM screws turned up today. Yay!
Socket size is too small. Boo!

Gonna borrow one from work tomorrow.
It's not about being growing up,
it's about being strategically childish.
2021-05-09 01:28
Avatar
jbarnhardt
From: Seattle, United States
Posts: 191
Did you get M3 bolts? They should use the same allen wrench that all the M3 screws you used in your Makibox assembly used (2.5mm allen wrench...).

-John
2021-05-09 03:39
Avatar
Cris Rowlands (CrisRowlands)
Designer
From: Cradley Heath, United Kingdom
Posts: 121
Yup, definitely M3, but they have a slightly different head to the ones in the picture on eBay >_>

Edit: Nevermind just checked & they are the ones in the picture. Just got the slightly wrong screws; got button head ones.
It's not about being growing up,
it's about being strategically childish.
2021-05-09 04:19
Avatar
jbarnhardt
From: Seattle, United States
Posts: 191
Ah yes, the button heads will have a slightly smaller socket. Well, they will be awesome for this application once you get the right size wrench! That is probably the best type of fastener for this since it is so low profile. Nicely done. ;-)

-John
2021-05-09 05:32
Avatar
Cris Rowlands (CrisRowlands)
Designer
From: Cradley Heath, United Kingdom
Posts: 121
Well, after a hectic week & a nice but surprisingly fast weekend, I finally have some spare time to tinker with Susan again.
First off, I finally put the FroZen drive together last night. I found I couldn't fit the 'backplate' part in, not sure what happened there. There just didn't seem to be enough room between the main body of it (provided by robthebrew - thank you again) and the x-axis panel it attaches to.

I'm just about to start the pain in the ass process of installing the MakiBox drivers onto my new laptop & then I'll get to testing out how well she runs now :)
It's not about being growing up,
it's about being strategically childish.
2021-05-12 15:40
Avatar
Cris Rowlands (CrisRowlands)
Designer
From: Cradley Heath, United Kingdom
Posts: 121
After a few days of testing using both hot ends with different temperatures with different extruders I am left disappointed.

Still only have 2 completed prints to my name.
I'm starting to lose faith that Susan will work as well as I originally hoped.

Might have to look into an entirely different, third party hot end/extruder combo.
It's not about being growing up,
it's about being strategically childish.
2021-05-15 02:15
Avatar
jbarnhardt
From: Seattle, United States
Posts: 191
iconCrisRowlands:
Well, after a hectic week & a nice but surprisingly fast weekend, I finally have some spare time to tinker with Susan again.
First off, I finally put the FroZen drive together last night. I found I couldn't fit the 'backplate' part in, not sure what happened there. There just didn't seem to be enough room between the main body of it (provided by robthebrew - thank you again) and the x-axis panel it attaches to.

I'm just about to start the pain in the ass process of installing the MakiBox drivers onto my new laptop & then I'll get to testing out how well she runs now :)


Can you post a picture of how you have this mounted and what isn't mating properly? I'm not exactly following the description above. With a picture we may be able to help you troubleshoot what is going on. If the part is printed accurately (I assume it is, robthebrew sounds like he's had good success) the main body should fit right over the bosses on the back side of the acrylic panel (the same side as the extruder stepper mounts to) and the backplate goes on the opposite side of the acrylic panel (on the "inside" of the printer - the same side as the motion screws, etc.). The screws go through the backplate, then through the acrylic wall of the Makibox, then through the FroZen main body and idler arm assembly, and then into the stepper motor bolt holes. Take a look at the picture on the Thingiverse page and the installation instructions there if you haven't already. Best of luck,

-John
2021-05-16 06:49
Avatar
Cris Rowlands (CrisRowlands)
Designer
From: Cradley Heath, United Kingdom
Posts: 121
I was all up for ordering myself an E3D hot end (http://forum.e3d-online.com/viewtopic.php?f=7&t=80&p=485) only to find it's outta stock :'( I would pre-order it, but after my MakiBox experience, I've been put off the idea of pre-ordering for life.

@jbarnhardt I assembled it as shown in the instructions, but without the backplate between the acrylic panel & the main body. If I had included the backplate, the bowden tube wouldn't have lined up with the hole in the top acrylic panel. I've temporarily dismantled Susan so cant take photos :(

Decided that as soon as I get it printing properly, I am gonna go ahead with my plans to make a larger printer out of Susan. I'll get all the parts & assemble as much as I can before taking Susan apart for good. I don't want to spend anything on a larger printer build until I know she can print reliably.
It's not about being growing up,
it's about being strategically childish.
2021-05-17 03:05
Avatar
robthebrew
Posts: 763
Cris, you may need to trim a bit. It should be backplate - acrylic - body. The body has indents that fit to the extrusions on the acrylic.
If the bowden is not lining up, then feed a 2mm drill bit through and gauge where you need to adjust the bowden holding area.
My print was in no way perfect, but it is close.
2021-05-17 03:18
Avatar
jbarnhardt
From: Seattle, United States
Posts: 191
iconCrisRowlands:
@jbarnhardt I assembled it as shown in the instructions, but without the backplate between the acrylic panel & the main body. If I had included the backplate, the bowden tube wouldn't have lined up with the hole in the top acrylic panel. I've temporarily dismantled Susan so cant take photos :(


Allrighty. Just to be clear, the backplate is intended to go on the INSIDE of the print envelope - the "front" side of the rear acrylic panel - the side that the screws and rods that move the Y-axis are on. The backplate should not be in contact with the body of the FroZen - the acrylic panel should be BETWEEN the backplate and the main body of the FroZen. From what you're describing I think you've tried to mount the backplate on the same side of the acrylic panel as the body, which is incorrect and would cause exactly the issue you've described (Bowden tube and fitting won't line up with the hole in the top panel. If you look at the picture of a mounted FroZen that is on the Thingiverse page it should be fairly clear how this is supposed to go together. Hopefully getting things in the right place will help to alleviate some of your issues.

-John
2021-05-17 03:19
Avatar
Cris Rowlands (CrisRowlands)
Designer
From: Cradley Heath, United Kingdom
Posts: 121
Ha. I never noticed that in the pictures.

Still, I removed the top acrylic panel & assembled the FroZen. I don't think which side the backplate is on would affect if it jams or not. The parts I got from robthebrew were great & the backpanel is the only real print that's finished (goodness knows how).

I plan on rebuilding her tonight with the frozen attached correctly, but I doubt it will work any better until I get a different hot end. Talking of hot ends I seem to be getting leakages above the nut just above the heating element. Another problem I've noticed is the Bowden tube having a bit of movement within the hot end assembly, resulting in the filament not ending up in the hot end itself, causing jams.
It's not about being growing up,
it's about being strategically childish.
2021-05-17 03:33
Avatar
robthebrew
Posts: 763
Cris, do your self a favour and get another hot end. I have a E3D: currently it is really great, but expensive and you lose build height.
I am thinking of how to mount it differently to get rid of the build height problem, but without losing the ability to Zero over the drop zone.
As to rebuilding correctly: you would be amazed the difference a few screw turns make, let alone assembling it the way it was intended.
2021-05-17 03:46
Avatar
jbarnhardt
From: Seattle, United States
Posts: 191
iconrobthebrew:
As to rebuilding correctly: you would be amazed the difference a few screw turns make, let alone assembling it the way it was intended.


+1000.
2021-05-17 04:20
Avatar
Cris Rowlands (CrisRowlands)
Designer
From: Cradley Heath, United Kingdom
Posts: 121
I hear you both. I've completely rebuilt her 3 times now & every time she's got a little better.
Just did a test cube & it flippin' well finished didn't it?



The infill sank a little & there was a bit of wobble, but that is easily fixable.

I started another print, which I stopped during the first layer to fix the wobble.
When I tried doing the second print again, it jammed. No filament came out.
I wonder if it's the Slic3r settings, as it was something I slic3d myself, as opposed to the test cube.

I also noticed the motors were REALLY hot. I remember someone saying turning down the voltage to the motors helped, could someone point me in the direction of instructions of how to do that? I've not changed anything regarding the electrical workings of the printer, firmware or anything like that. Seems like that's the next step I should take now I have proof she can print to an acceptable standard.

Any suggestions how to proceed?
It's not about being growing up,
it's about being strategically childish.
2021-05-17 19:23